HOW TO PAINT EXTERIORS

PREPARATION IS THE KEY

• Put drop clothes in place under areas being painted.
• Make sure all surfaces are smooth and free of cracks. Countersink exposed nail heads and spot prime.
• Fill nail head depressions, cracks and imperfections with exterior grade moulasic sparkle plaster or putty.
• Lightly sand glossy, "shiny" surfaces for better adhesion. Sand "mill glaze" off new siding for proper adhesion.
• Clean off dust and dirt with cloth or soft brush.
• Remove chalk residue with brush or water.
• Remove any mildew.
• Remove salt accumulations under eaves by washing.
• Scrape out old caulking, re-caulk and prime; when working with bare wood, prime before re-caulking.
• Prime all exposed areas where paint has worn thin, peeled, or blistered (refer to Surface Problems and Solutions).
• Allow all areas that have been primed to dry thoroughly (one or two days may be necessary).

Gutters and Downspouts can be painted
On previously painted gutters and downspouts, remove rust and peeling paint by scraping or wire brushing. Sand edges smooth from sound paint to bare spots. Wash protected areas -- under eaves -- with a strong stream of water from a garden hose. Apply self-priming Ironclad Latex Low Lustre Metal & Wood Enamel or Magral Low Lustre Latex Paint when surface is dry.

New galvanized gutters and downspouts are coated with a fabricating oil that must be removed prior to painting. Moisten a rag with mineral spirits and thoroughly wipe all surfaces to be painted. Change rags frequently. Prime with latex based.

Aluminum gutters and downspouts are factory coated and should remain in good condition for several years. When it is time to paint them, follow the above method.

SPECIAL STEPS FOR SPECIAL SURFACES:
Brick and masonry can be streaked with a white powder called efflorescence. Remove with wire brushing and scraping. Appropriate measures should be taken to eliminate the cause of efflorescence. Be sure block and stucco surfaces are allowed to cure (i.e. dry thoroughly) for 30 to 60 days before priming and top coating. If surfaces were coated with a cement bonding paint, it should be removed prior to painting.

TIME TO PAINT:
The prime coat is now dry. All preparations have been completed. Prior to painting make sure to have enough paint "boxed" or mixed to complete an entire section. This is an important step to insure consistency of color with both ready-mixed and custom blended colors.

1. Mix the paint thoroughly. Always stir before and during use.
2. Load your brush with paint by immersing the first 1/3 of the bristles into the paint and tap the brush lightly side-to-side against the inside of the can. Do not drag the bristles across the lip of the can; this will rob your brush of half its paint carrying capacity.
3. When applying with a brush, use long, smooth strokes. Oil based house paint should be brushed back and forth several times for a well spread, even coat. If paint gathers along the horizontal edge of the clapboard, paint is being applied too heavily or not being adequately brushed out. Latex paints do not require much brushing. These paints dry quickly, and excessive brushing will "cut" deep brush marks permanently into the paint film. When using latex, apply paint generously, give it one or two back and forth strokes and leave it to dry.
4. Roller application works well for porous surfaces such as masonry and stucco. Dip roller in paint tray and roll back and forth to remove excess paint. If it drips when picked it up it is overloaded. A roller is ideal for flat surfaces, but will not fit into inside corners and will deposit too much paint on edges of outer corners. Apply paint to those areas with a brush to assure good coverage. Use long even strokes, rolling in different directions to coat the entire surface. Finish off with strokes in one direction.

APPLICATION AIDS:

• Refrain from painting when the temperature is below 50 F.
• Avoid painting in threatening weather -- a shower can ruin a fresh coat of paint.
• Solvent thinned paints should not be applied over damp surfaces, in foggy weather or before the dew has evaporated. This will lead to blistering and peeling.

Begin painting on the side of the house that will remain in the shade until you have finished. Direct sun causes rapid drying and interferes with the leveling qualities of the paint and produces lap-marks, particularly with latex paints. Dry blisters will develop with oil-based paints, especially with dark colors. The sun (or strong wind) causes the surface of the paint to dry too rapidly, trapping the solvents before they evaporated. Paint from top down. To prevent drips and spatters from spoiling previously painted areas, work from the top down, doing gutters and eaves first if they are to match siding color. This technique is appropriate for shingle surfaces, where the shingles provide natural breaking points so painting in vertical sections is convenient. Work from side to side is ideal for clapboard. It makes no difference whether you work from the left to the right, but to minimize lapping coat 4 to 5 boards across the house until completed (instead of from top to bottom) before moving the ladder. On clapboard siding, the first surface to paint is the area where the two boards overlap. Use the narrow side of the brush and force paint up under the lap. Coat as much length of board as you can comfortably reach, then flip to the wider portion of the brush and coat the face of the board. Paint trim area last. Shutters can be removed, painted, and re-hung when the job is completed. Coat window sash, door paneling first, then paint the window frames, sills, and door trim. Any paint on the putty line of the window will serve to protect the puttied surface from water. Excess paint can be scraped off with a razor blade to create a neat edge. Taking a break -- wrap brushes, rollers and paint trays with plastic wrap to keep paint from hardening or developing a skin. Replace the lids on open cans. Paint will build up on the heel of the brush, where bristles meet ferrule. To eliminate this excess, occasionally drag the heel of the brush over the lip of the can several times.

SURFACE PROBLEMS AND THEIR SOLUTIONS
A house exterior takes quite a beating from nature -- UV rays, high winds, freezing temperatures, blistering heat -- and the one thin film that protects and preserves the surface is paint. Three factors generally are responsible for paint failures:

• Moisture, in various forms, is constantly present in the atmosphere and tends to accumulate beneath a coat of paint. It is responsible for blistering, peeling, staining and mildew.
• Inadequate surface preparation
• Improper application
• Scaling (under-eave peeling): Top coat of paint peels away in paper thin layers from previously painted coats underneath. This problem generally occurs on surfaces protected from weather. When moisture mixes with chemical substances in the air, the resulting salt deposits accumulate on a house's surface. On exposed surfaces, these deposits are washed off with rain but protected areas do not benefit from the rain. In freezing temperatures, moisture lingering in the salt layer freezes and expands, forcing the top coat of paint outward. The bond between layers breaks and the top coat peels away from the rest of the paint.

Solution: Wash under-eave surfaces and weather protected areas with detergent solution or thoroughly rinse or use a strong stream of water from garden hose to wash off contaminants. Another method to consider is having the surface cleaned, power washed, with high pressure equipment. When dry, scrape or brush away loose paint. Sand any glossy surfaces and remove dust to assure proper adhesion. Prime and top coat with a quality paint.

• Blistering and Peeling: Excessive moisture in the wood surface is the culprit. The moisture can come from:
  • Uncaulked cracks and joints;
  • Worn or crumbling caulking;
  • Ice or debris-filled gutters;
  • Condensation on interior of a cold exterior wall.

Solution: Eliminate the source of the moisture. Examine the house exterior and make repairs to gutters, roofs, windows, trim, joints and siding, etc. Proper caulking is important; it is important to apply new caulk to a dry, primed surface. If you do not seal the wood with a coat of primer, it will absorb the caulking vehicle (that ingredient that allows it to be pliable and spreadable) and cause the caulk to dry out. Apply quality top coat.

Kitchens, baths and laundries generate moisture. Vents may need to be installed to expel excess humidity.

• Checking and Cracking: Checking results in a pattern of short narrow breaks on the top layer of paint; cracking occurs later as these breaks deepen and split. The split in the film allows moisture to enter and loosen the paint. Checking and cracking develop when paint begins to loose its elasticity. Newly applied, paint is remarkable flexible, allowing it to expand and contract with changes in temperature and humidity. On older homes with numerous coats of paint, the underlying paint layers become brittle with age and are no longer flexible. As the wood swells, stress breaks the bond between layers to form checks. More activity widens the breaks to form cracks.

Solution: Remove as much loose paint as possible. Sand rough surfaces. In some cases, it is best to remove all the paint down to the bare surface to avoid the unevenness that results with the removal many layers of paint in some areas and none in others. Apply quality primer and top coat.

• Excessive Chalking: Chalking, a powdery residue on the surface, is the normal result of weathering and occurs, in time, with all paint films. Normal chalking will usually leave traces of paint dust on your fingertips and, in moderation, can prove helpful since it keeps the painted surface relatively soil-free. Wipe a gloved hand over the surface. If paint dust covers your hand, excessive chalking is present and its time to paint. Paint cannot bond firmly to a severely chalked surface so it must be removed.

Solution: Use a stiff fiber or wire brush to remove the powdery deposits. Spray with a strong stream of water from a garden hose to wash away the loosened dust or have the surface power washed.

• Mildew: This fungus grows in almost any climate; however, it is where humidity is high and temperatures warm that mildew is most active. Thick shrubbery close to the house, blocking out sun, allows dampness to create a friendly mildew environment. To be certain you are treating mildew and not dirt, soak a small cloth in household bleach and dab it on the surface without wiping. If it's mildew, the spots will bleach out in a few minutes; if dirt, it will be unaffected by the bleach.

Solution: Mildew spores must be removed completely or they will grow through the new paint. Remove using a solution* of 1 cup powdered detergent (do not substitute ammonia-containing detergents), 1 quart 5% sodium nypochlorite (household bleach) in 3 quarts of warm water. Spray the solution* onto the surface and leave it for five minutes. Thoroughly hose surface with clean water. Repeat if necessary. The surface can also be power washed.

*SAFETY PRECAUTIONS: Whenever using any washing solution, protect hands with rubber gloves and eyes with work goggles. Wash hands, face and arms thoroughly when finished. NEVER mix ammonia with household bleaches or mix household detergents containing ammonia with bleach. Avoid contact with the solution.

Surface Discoloration (Cedar Bleed): Brownish stains sometimes appear on homes constructed with redwood or cedar. These woods naturally contain water-soluble compounds. If moisture is present at the time of construction, or builds up behind them from condensation, it will dissolve the compounds, transport them to the surface and create a stained, discolored surface.

Solution for Painted Surfaces: To control further discoloration, coat the surface with one or two coats of a premium oil-based primer such as Moorwhite Primer, tinted toward the color you have selected for the finish coat. (Follow label directions for application procedures). Allow to dry for several days. If some spots remain stained, re-prime them. Pay special attention to the areas between rows of shingles and siding. Force ample brushfuls of primer under the laps and be sure shingle edges are completely coated.

Solution for Stain-coated Surfaces: Apply one or two coats of a premium stain primer, such as Moorwood Exterior Primer before applying your stain top coat. If the present color is a light shade, consider selecting a darker tone that will minimize the appearance of future staining.

NOTE: Weathered Unpainted Shingles: For a natural, weathered appearance, some shingled homes have not been stained or painted. After years of exposure, these surfaces have darkened considerably. Very often, mildew can be the cause of the discoloration. If it is mildew, treat the condition as previously referenced. After surface is thoroughly dry, wire brush loose wood particles. Apply a solid color exterior stain or semi-transparent stain that will afford some protection to the surface from further UV degradation.